In the summers of 2018 and 2024 I spent a little over a month backpacking in the balkans twice. This is a region in Eastern Europe known for authenticity, meaty dishes, cheap prices, chaotic transport, schengen-free visas (I see you, Aussies), great parties, and much more. I’ve been to Eastern Europe quite a few times and have loved it every single visit. It is debatable which region can be counted as ‘Balkan’ and which ones are considered Central Europe. For this itinerary, I am focusing on Eastern Europe and choosing not to include too much of Central Europe.
Here is the itinerary I would do if I’d never visited the countries before:
My Balkan itinerary:
Sarajevo: 3 days
Fly into a city bursting with history and take a few days to settle in, find out more about it’s notorious past and take the cable lift to walk around the Olympic mountain and abandoned bobsled track. If you have time, take a bunker tour!
Mostar: 2 days
Take the scenic train ride from Sarajevo to Mostar and enjoy the bustling town at night. Take a tour with locals to explore the area. Make sure to taste some locally made pomogranate juice!
Dubrovnik: 2 days
Take a bus to Dubrovnik and get lost in the small streets of this beautiful Adriatic coastal city. Dubrovnik is the most expensive city on this list, so though gorgeous, it might be hard on your wallet.
Kotor: 4 days
Cooling off from the steep Croatian prices, slow down in Kotor. Enjoy morning hikes in the surrounding mountains and dipping your toes into the fjords in the afternoon.
Shkodër: 5 days
The town of Shkodër is not the most interesting, but it is the gateway to the beautiful Albanian alps! After spending a night in the town, take a 3 day tour to do the famous Valbonë – Teth hike. If you have extra time, go to Lumi i Shales or book a canyon tour with the Wanderers Hostel.
Skopje: 2 days
Skopje is a city of dualities that is definitely worth a stop! The Soviet-style buildings and old bazaar are the backdrop of a changing city filled with monumental statues. Beware: it is extremely hot in the summer. When I visited, temperatures during the day rose to 43°C.
Ohrid: 4 days
A stunning village by the Ohrid lake, this town is sure to charm you. Enjoy swimming in crystal clear water, boat tours and concerts.
Tirana: 2 days
Getting back into Albania, you’ll see the price of your restaurant bill dropping once more. Going out to eat in Tirana is a must-do, it is a great place for foodies!
Berat: 2 days
A charming small town hidden in the canyons and vineyards of the middle of Albania. For the daredevils there are canyoning tours and more relaxed travellers can rejoice in a vineyard tour.
Himarë: 3 days
A quiet beach town that sends you back to Albania from 20 years ago. A hidden gem and reccomendation from fellow travellers!
Gjirokaster: 1 day
Hidden in the hills of South Albania, this is a small town that feels similar to Berat. From this town, you can take the 6AM bus to Ionannina, Greece. This is one of the only ways to take public transport into Greece, without having to cross to Corfu by ferry first.
Kalambaka: 2 days
Kalambaka is the home of famous monasteries placed on cliffs. You can take a walking trail to visit them (19 kms), though most people choose to rent a car for their visit. The town is a quiet, sleepy town and apart from the monasteries there isn’t much to do. Take a morning bus to Thessaloniki and cross into Bulgaria, or take a bus to Olympia to see if you can find the Gods in the mountains!
Sofia: 5 days
The city of Sofia is a perfect place to strike down for a few days. It’s an affordable city with loads of history, nature and party. Sofia is in a great position to choose your own adventure and change plans on a whim. You can travel deeper into Bulgaria, go to Serbia or to Turkey.
A strategic base: Sofia
Apart from its beauty and fun, Sofia is also great to visit for those who have an open end itinerary. The city is well connected with all major cities around: Plovdiv, Varna, Bucharest, Skopje, Thessaloniki and even Istanbul! Sofia is also close to the Rila mountains, where you can do beautiful day trips or weekends away.
Bulgaria has a train system, but trains are slow and often more expensive than buses. I would recommend taking the night train from Sofia to Istanbul over taking a night bus from Thessaloniki or Sofia to Istanbul, because of comfort. I took the train myself and at sunset (in summer) we rode past the Central Balkan National Park. Seeing the rolling hills, cliffs and mountain peaks from our sleeper cabin was a sight I will remember for a long time!
From Sofia, it is common to take a direct train to Serbia and spend a weekend in the capital of Belgrade to party. The city has a Berlinesque vibe of 20 years ago and is a favourite amongst many backpackers. In this itinerary, I’m choosing to go towards the black coast and will circle back to Belgrade later.
The adventure that I would choose: Bulgaria, Romania and Serbia
Plovdiv: 2 days
Plovdiv is a former Cultural capital of Europe (2019) and has a great atmosphere. Walk around its bohemian neighbourhoods and visit Roman ruins in the middle of the city centre! I recommend you spend a night here, so you can enjoy the relaxed vibe on a terrace at night, sipping on a glass of wine and seeing locals stroll through the streets..
Varna: 2 days (optional)
After travelling for a month, you’ve finally made it from the Adriatic sea, via the Aegean sea, to the Black sea! See the sun rise over the water and experience the difference between the Mediterranean coast and the Black sea. I would consider Varna optional, but having come all this way it’s perhaps nice to be able to tick the Black sea off your list.
Bucharest: 3 days
A must-not-skip when in this part of Europe! Bucharest is known for its lovely old town. Apart from Romanian cuisine, it’s also a great place to eat Greek style! Though I would definitely reccomend you to try at least a few hearty Romanian dishes.
Timisoara: 2 days (optional)
Timisoara is another interesting cultural hub, similar to Plovdiv. Apart from culture, it is also fairly close to the Transilvanian mountains. An alternative to Timisoara could be Cluj-Napoca, famous for its Castle festival.
Belgrade: 3 days
Ending your trip in a hip city that’s only a stone’s throw away from Timisoara, enjoy Belgrade for its underground feel and clubbing scene. The city also has a very small bohemian quarter and a questionable war museum.
As far as backpacking the Balkans goes: you can’t make a bad decision, other than not doing it at all! There is so much to explore and whilst similar in some aspects of their culture, each country is uniquely different. Which adventure would you choose?